Salta al menu principale di navigazione Salta al contenuto principale Salta al piè di pagina del sito
FrancoAngeli Journals

Articoli. Lo spazio del cibo: narrazioni, politiche e territori

N. 4 (2023)

Discorsi e pratiche della tipicità. Il cibo come ambito di costruzione identitaria, patrimonializzazione e sviluppo locale

  • Michela Lazzeroni
  • Giacomo Pettenati
  • Donatella Privitera
  • Sergio Zilli
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3280/rgioa4-2023oa16850
Inviata
23 November 2023
Pubblicato
20-12-2023

Abstract

Il cibo è un elemento importante dell’identità delle comunità locali e viene spesso considerato un patrimonio da valorizzare. Tuttavia, la relazione tra il processo di costruzione della tipicità dei prodotti agroalimentari e i processi territoriali è complessa e multivocale. Questo contributo si propone di approfondire quattro assi di ricerca relativi al rapporto tra prodotti tipici e territorio, analizzando il ruolo della tipicità come strumento di patrimonializzazione e sviluppo locale, il processo di identificazione e codificazione di un prodotto tipico come oggetto di negoziazione tra attori locali e sovralocali, il rischio di iperspecializzazione produttiva e la tensione tra pratiche culturali locali e tendenze del mercato e dei sistemi produttivi sovralocali e globali. Il contributo conclude delineando alcune aree poco studiate e indicando le direzioni di ricerca future per approfondire la relazione tra prodotti tipici, territorio e sviluppo locale e dinamiche di mercato.

Riferimenti bibliografici

  1. Almansouri M., Verkerk R., Fogliano V., Luning P.A. (2021). Exploration of heritage food concept. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 111: 790-797. DOI: 10.1016/j.tifs.2021.01.013
  2. Arfini F., Belletti G., Marescotti A. (2010). Prodotti tipici e denominazioni geografiche. Strumenti di tutela e di valorizzazione. Roma: Edizioni Tellus.
  3. Arfini F., Cozzi E., Mancini M.C., Ferrer-Perez H., Gil J.M. (2019). Are geographical indication products fostering public goods? Some evidence from Europe. Sustainability, 11(1): 272. DOI: 10.3390/su11010272
  4. Auestad N., Fulgoni III V. (2015). What current literature tells us about Sustainable Diets: Emerging Research Linking Dietary Patterns, Environmental Sustainability, and Economics. Advances in Nutrition, 6: 19-36. DOI: 10.3945/an.114.005694
  5. Banini T. (2017). Proposing a theoretical framework for local territorial identities: Concepts, questions and pitfalls. Territorial Identity and Development, 2(2): 16-23. DOI: 10.23740/tid220172
  6. Basso M. (2018). From daily land-use practice to global phenomenon. On the origin and recent evolution of prosecco’s wine landscape (Italy). Miscellanea GeoGraphica –Regional Studies on Development, 22/2: 109-115. DOI: 10.2478/mgrsd-2018-0013
  7. Becattini G. (1998). Distretti industriali e made in Italy. Torino: Bollati Boringhieri.
  8. Belletti G., Marescotti A. (2011). Origin products, geographical indications and rural development. In: Barham E., Sylvander B., a cura di, Labels of origin for food. Local development, global recognition. Wallingford: CABI International.
  9. Bellicini L. (1989). La campagna urbanizzata. Fattorie e case coloniche nell’Italia centrale e nordorientale. In: Bevilacqua P., ed., Storia della agricoltura italiana in età contemporanea, vol. I. Venezia: Marsilio.
  10. Bellini N., Resnick E. (2020). The luxury turn in wine tourism: Still good for local development? In: Bellini N., Clergeau C., Etcheverria O., eds., Gastronomy and Local Development. The Quality of Products, Places and Experiences. London: Routledge.
  11. Bérard L., Marchenay P., Delfosse C. (2004). Les «produits de terroir»: de la recherche à l’expertise. Ethnologie française, 37(2): 591-600. DOI: 10.3917/ethn.044.0591
  12. Boatto V., Galletto L., Barisan L., Bianchin F. (2013). The development of wine tourism in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene area. Wine Economics and Policy, 2: 93-101. DOI: 101016/j.wep.2013.11.003
  13. Borghesi R. (2009). Reinventare la campagna, a cominciare dal paesaggio. In: Bonora, P., Cervellati P., a cura di, Per una Nuova Urbanità. Dopo l’alluvione immobiliarista. Reggio Emilia: Diabasis.
  14. Bowen S. (2010). Embedding local places in global spaces: Geographical indications as a territorial development strategy. Rural Sociology, 75(2): 209-243. DOI: 10.1111/j.1549-0831.2009.00007
  15. Etiévant P. (2012) Dietary Behaviours and Practices: Determinants, Action, Outcomes. In: Burlingame B., Dernini S., a cura di, Sustainable diets and biodiversity. Directions and Solutions or Policy, Research and Action. Roma: FAO.
  16. Caroli M. (2014). Il marketing per la gestione competitiva del territorio. Milano: FrancoAngeli.
  17. Cavicchi A., Ciampi Stancova K. (2016). Food and gastronomy as elements of regional innovation strategies. European Commission, Joint Research Centre, Institute for Prospective Technological Studies, Spain. EUR 27757 EN. DOI: 10.2791/284013.
  18. Cecchini L., Torquati B., Chiorri M. (2018). Sustainable agri-food products: A review of consumer preference studies through experimental economics. Agricultural Economics, 64(12): 554-565. DOI: 10.17221/272/2017-agricecon
  19. Charters S., Ali-Knight J. (2002). Who is the wine tourists? Tourism Management, 23/3: 311-319. DOI: 10.1016/S0261-5177(01)00079-6
  20. Commissione europea (2020a). Una strategia “Dal produttore al consumatore” per un sistema alimentare equo, sano e rispettoso dell’ambiente. COM (2020) 381 final.
  21. Commissione europea (2020b). Strategia dell’UE sulla biodiversità per il 2030. Riportare la natura nella nostra vita. COM (2020) 380 final.
  22. Conneely R., Mahon M. (2015). Protected geographical indications: Institutional roles in food systems governance and rural development. Geoforum, 60: 14-21. DOI: 10.1016/j.geoforum.2015.01.004
  23. Cook I., Crang P. (1996). The world on a plate: culinary culture, displacement and geographical knowledge. Journal of Material Culture, 1(2): 131-153. DOI: 10.1177/135918359600100201
  24. Cornil Y., Chandon P. (2016). Pleasure as a Substitute for Size: How Multisensory Imagery Can Make People Happier with Smaller Food Portions. Journal of Marketing Research, 53(5): 847-864. DOI: 10.1509/jmr.14.0299
  25. Corti M. (2011). I ribelli del bitto. Bra: Slow Food.
  26. Costantini E. (2008). Suolo, vite e altre colture di qualità: l’introduzione e la pratica dei concetti “terroir” e “zonazione”. Italian Journal of Agronomy, 3: 23-33.
  27. Crescenzi R., De Filippis F., Giua M., Vaquero-Piñeiro C. (2022). Geographical Indications and local development: the strength of territorial embeddedness. Regional Studies, 56:3: 381-393. DOI: 10.1080/00343404.2021.1946499
  28. Dalampira E.S., Papadaki-Klavdianou A., Nastis S., Partalidou M., Michailidis A. (2020). Food for thought: an assessment tool for environmental food identities. International Journal of Sustainable Development & World Ecology, 27(1): 80-95. DOI: 10.1080/13504509.2019.1695231
  29. Demossier M. (2011). Beyond terroir: territorial construction, hegemonic discourses, and French wine culture. Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute, 17(4): 685-705. DOI: 10.1111/j.14679655.2011.01714.x
  30. Fischer C.G., Garnett T. (2016). Plates, pyramids and planets. FAO and the University of Oxford, testo disponibile al sito: www.fao.org/3/i5640e/i5640e.pdf (consultato il 10 dicembre 2022).
  31. Florek M., Gazda J. (2021). Traditional Food Products – Between Place Marketing, Economic Importance and Sustainable Development. Sustainability, 13(1277): 1-15. DOI: 10.3390/su13031277
  32. Forno F., Maurano S. (2016). Cibo, Sostenibilità e territorio. Dai sistemi di approvvigionamento alternativi ai Food policy councils. Rivista Geografica Italiana, 123(1): 1-20.
  33. Franco S., Pancino B., Martella A., De Gregorio T. (2022). Assessing the Presence of a Monoculture: From Definition to Quantification. Agriculture, 12/1: 1506. DOI: 10.3390/agriculture12091506
  34. Gambi L. (1973). Critica ai concetti geografici di paesaggio umano. In: Gambi L., Una geografia per la storia. Torino: Einaudi.
  35. Giorgetti G. (1974). Contadini e proprietari nell’Italia moderna. Torino: Einaudi.
  36. Goodman M.K. (2016). Food geographies I: Relational foodscapes and the busyness of being more-than-food. Progress in Human Geography, 40(2): 257-266. DOI: 10.1177/0309132515570192
  37. Grandi A. (2018). Denominazione di origine inventata. Milano: Mondadori.
  38. Grasseni C. (2017). The Heritage Arena: Reinventing Cheese in the Italian Alps. New York: Berghahn Books.
  39. Grunert K.G. (2007). How consumers perceive food quality. In: Frewer L., van Trijp H., a cura di, Understanding Consumers of Food Products. Cambridge: British Welding Research Association.
  40. Hemmerling S., Hamm U., Spiller A. (2015). Consumption behaviour regarding organic food from a marketing perspective. A literature review. Organic Agriculture, 5(4): 277-313. DOI: 10.1007/s13165-015-0109-3
  41. Hempel C., Hamm U. (2016). Local and/or organic: a study on consumer preferences for organic food and food from different origins. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 40(6): 732-741. DOI: 10.1111/ijcs.12288
  42. Holt G., Amilien V. (2007). Introduction: from local food to localised food. Anthropology of food, Special Issue 2. DOI: 10.4000/aof.405
  43. Ilbery B., Kneafsey M. (2000). Producer constructions of quality in regional speciality food production: a case study from south west England. Journal of rural studies, 16(2), 217-230. DOI: 10.1016/S0743-0167(99)00041-8
  44. Inglis D. (2015). Globalization and food: The dialectics of globality and locality. In: Turner B., Holton R., a cura di, The Routledge International Handbook of Globalization Studies. Abingdon: Routledge.
  45. Jacini S. (1976). I risultati della inchiesta agraria (1884). Torino: Einaudi.
  46. Joosse S. (2016). The Making and Re‐making of a Regional Product: The Case of Zeeland Madder. Sociologia Ruralis, 56(2): 248-269. DOI: 10.1111/soru.12076
  47. Kneafsey M. (2010). The region in food. Important or irrelevant? Cambridge Journal of Regions, Economy and Society, 3(2): 177-190. DOI: 10.1093/cjres/rsq012
  48. Kneafsey M., Maye D., Holloway L., Goodman M.K. (2021). Geographies of Food. An Introduction. London: Bloomsbury Academic.
  49. Lazzeroni M., Bellini N., Cortesi G., Loffredo A. (2013). The territorial approach to cultural economy: new opportunities for the development of small towns. European Planning Studies, 21(4): 452-472. DOI: 10.1080/09654313.2012.722920
  50. Li Q., Li X., Chen W., Su X., Yu R. (2023). Involvement, place attachment, and environmentally responsible behaviour connected with geographical indication products, Tourism Geographies, 25: 44-71. DOI: 10.1080/14616688.2020.1826569
  51. Lin J., Cui Q., Xu H., Guia J. (2022). Health and local food consumption in crosscultural tourism mobility: an assemblage approach. Tourism Geographies, 24(6-7): 1103-1122. DOI: 10.1080/14616688.2020.1867887
  52. Magnaghi A. (2010). Il progetto locale. Torino: Bollati Boringhieri.
  53. Mascarello G., Pinto A., Parise N., Crovato S., Ravarotto L. (2015). The perception of food quality. Profiling Italian consumers. Appetite, 89: 175-182. DOI: 10.1111/1745-5871.12566
  54. Meethan K. (2015). Making the Difference: The Experience Economy and the Future of Regional Food Tourism. In: Yeoman I., McMahon-Beattie U., Fields K., Albrecht J.N., Meethan K., a cura di, Future of Food Tourism: Foodies, Experiences, Exclusivity, Visions and Political Capital, Bristol: Blue Ridge Summit. DOI: 10.21832/9781845415396-012
  55. Merlino V.M., Sciullo A., Pettenati G., Sottile F., Peano C., Massaglia S. (2022). Local Production: What Do Consumers Think? Sustainability, 14(6): 3623. DOI: 10.3390/su14063623
  56. Murdoch J. (2006). Post-structuralist Geography. Londra: Sage.
  57. Nagy L.B., Lakner Z., Temesi A. (2022). Is it really organic? Credibility factors of organic food – A systematic review and bibliometric analysis. PLoS ONE, 17(4): e0266855. DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0266855
  58. Pappalardo S., Gislimberti L., Ferrarese F., De Marchi M., Mozzi P. (2019). Estimation of potential soil erosion in the Prosecco DOCG area (NE Italy), toward a soil footprint of bottled sparkling wine production in different land-management scenarios. PLoS ONE, 14(5): e0210922. DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0210922
  59. Parrott N., Wilson N., Murdoch J. (2002). Spatializing quality: regional protection and the alternative geography of food. European Urban and Regional Studies, 9(3): 241-261. DOI: 10.1177/096977640200900304
  60. Pettenati G. (2017). Paesaggio e Urban Food Planning: Intersezioni teoriche e operative. Bollettino della Società Geografica Italiana, XIII(X): 117-130.
  61. Piluso F. (2021). #Foodporn: fetishized sharing of food and its images. Digital Age in Semiotics & Communication, 4(1): 31-41. DOI: 10.33919/dasc.20-21.3-4.3
  62. Rabbiosi C. (2016). Turismo e prodotti tipici: un approccio performativo alla patrimonializzazione. Note da Verucchio. Rivista Geografica Italiana, 123(3): 303-322.
  63. Ridolfi R. (2019). SDGs for people, planet, and prosperity. FAO’s SDG compliance work as a means for leveraging sustainable investments in agri-food systems. Rome: FAO, testo disponibile al sito: www.fao.org/3/ca5137en/ca5137en.pdf (consultato il 10 novembre 2022).
  64. Ridolfi R., Dernini S., Morrison J.M., Mathiesen Á., Capone R. (2020). Changing Route: Common Action on Food Systems Transformation in the Mediterranean. New Medit, 19(3): 1-8. DOI: 10.30682/nm2003h
  65. Rippon M. (2014). What is the geography of Geographical Indications? Place, production methods and protected food names. Area, 46(2): 154- 162. DOI: 10.1111/area.12085
  66. Rivza B., Foris D., Foris T., Privitera D., Uljanova E., Rivza P. (2022). Gastronomic Heritage: A Contributor to Sustainable Local Tourism Development. GeoJournal of Tourism and Geosites, 44(4): 1326-1334. DOI: 10.30892/gtg.44418-950
  67. Sadilek T. (2019). Perception of food quality by consumers: literature review. European Research Studies Journal, 22(1): 57-67.
  68. Smith L. (2006). Uses of heritage. Abingdon: Routledge.
  69. Santeramo F.G., Seccia A., Nardone G. (2017). The synergies of the Italian wine and tourism sectors. Wine Economics and Policy, 6/1: 71-74. DOI: 10.1016/j.wep.2016.11.004
  70. SAPEA, Science Advice for Policy by European Academies. (2020). A sustainable food system for the European Union. Berlin: SAPEA. DOI: 10.26356/sustainablefood
  71. Sedelmeier T., Kühne O., Jenal C. (2022). Foodscapes. Heidelberg: Springer.
  72. Sereni E. (1947). Il capitalismo nelle campagne (1860-1900). Torino: Einaudi.
  73. Sereni E. (1961). Storia del paesaggio agrario italiano. Roma: Laterza.
  74. Sestini A. (1963). Il paesaggio italiano. Milano: TCI.
  75. Smith L. (2006). Uses of Heritage. Abingdon: Routledge.
  76. Su X., Zhang H. (2022) Tea drinking and the tastescapes of wellbeing in tourism, Tourism Geographies, 24 (6-7): 1061-1081. DOI: 10.1080/14616688.2020.1750685
  77. Tecco N., Bagliani M., Dansero E., Peano C. (2017). Toward the local territorial food system: spaces of analysis and action. Bollettino della Società Geografica Italiana, X: 20-38.
  78. Tempesta T., Giancristofaro R., Corain L., Salmaso L., Tomasi D., Boatto V. (2010). The importance of landscape in wine quality perception: An integrated approach using choice-based conjoint analysis and combination-based permutation tests. Food Quality and Preference, 21/7: 827-836. DOI: 10.1016/j.foodqual.2010.04.007
  79. Tregear A. (2003). From Stilton to Vimto: using food history to re‐think typical products in rural development. Sociologia ruralis, 43(2): 91-107. DOI: 10.1111/1467-9523.00233
  80. Turco A. (2010). Configurazioni della territorialità. Milano: FrancoAngeli.
  81. Visentin F., Vallerani F. (2018). A Countryside to Sip: Venice Inland and the Prosecco’s Uneasy Relationship with Wine Tourism and Rural Exploitation. Sustainability, 10, 2195; DOI: 10.3390/su10072195
  82. Vivero-Pol J.L. (2017). Food as Commons or Commodity? Exploring the Links between Normative Valuations and Agency in Food Transition. Sustainability, 9(442): 1-23. DOI: 10.3390/su9030442
  83. Ward N. (2022). Net Zero, Food and Farming. Climate Change and the UK Agri-Food System. Abingdon: Routledge.
  84. Waterman T., Zeunert J. (2018), Introduction. In: Zeunert J., Waterman T., a cura di, Routledge Handbook of Landscape and Food. Abingdon: Routledge.
  85. Winterstein J., Habisch A. (2021). Is local the new organic? Empirical evidence from German regions. British Food Journal, 123 (11): 3486-3501. DOI: 10.1108/BFJ-06-2020-0517
  86. Woods M. (2007). Engaging the global countryside: globalization, hybridity and the reconstitution of rural place. Progress in Human geography, 31(4): 485-507. DOI: 10.1177/0309132507079503
  87. Zappalaglio A. (2021). The transformation of EU Geographical Indications Law. Abingdon: Routledge.
  88. Zocchi D.M., Fontefrancesco M.F., Corvo P., Pieroni A. (2021). Recognising, safeguarding, and promoting food heritage: challenges and prospects for the future of sustainable food systems. Sustainability, 13(17): 9510. DOI: 10.3390/su13179510

Metriche

Caricamento metriche ...